I hate to rain on your parade, but if I did, I'd hope you had some kind of screw-down connection instead of a removable plug and jack.

The entire purpose of a jack panel is to allow fast and secure changing of connections. (secure = "doesn't fall out.") Be real: how often do you need to move a speaker connection from one amp channel to another? Having that need should be a driving issue in deciding to use jack panels.

Do the connections of any easily removable speaker wire connectors equal the low resistance of a screw-type connection, which can be tightened to the point of cold flow that creates an air-tight metal to metal connection? (By screw-type, I include binding posts.)


By the way screw-down connections HAVE to be better than banana plugs. To begin with, the great majority of banana plugs have a side entry hole, into which the wire is pushed, and then the wire is held in place with... a screw-down connection! This means the banana adds a second connection point to each channel's wiring.

Banana plugs typically have four spring-metal pieces that bow out from the center post. The peak of this bow is all that makes contact with the banana jack. That's four small connection areas, with the connection dependent on the strength of the spring metal. THAT is the kind of connection you're putting in series with the screw-down connection on the banana plug itself.

If you're concerned about having the best fidelity, the highest damping factor, the best current flow, connections held in place by a screw are the best. Unless you have crappy 70 volt speakers.

And if you have crappy 70 volt speakers, a panel seems ludicrous because who needs to change speaker connections on a 70 volt system? Which brings me back to the start: why do you want to use a tool made for quick changes that could lessen the signal quality?

The answer is that it looks cool. The client, not knowing better, thinks it's an improvement... or at least is willing to pay for it.