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Original thread:
Post 8 made on Friday February 19, 2016 at 04:29
Ernie Gilman
Yes, That Ernie!
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December 2001
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On February 18, 2016 at 19:23, Mario said...
[Link: factsfacts.com]
Good, basic information.

Link did not work! What are those links at the bottom of the page?

One of the great advantages of a toggler over the old toggle bolt is that the toggler has a much stronger "nut" part, with three or four turns of bolt captivated by the nut, so the toggler resists pullout much better than the toggle bolt. I throw out every toggle bolt I see and tell others to do the same. They're not worth the hassle.

Since I can't see Mario's info, I'll just comment on buzz's, looking only at the info for the 1/4-20 bolts.

It says the tension limit is greater for thicker drywall, then thicker for use in cinderblock. We can guess that 5/8" drywall plus a steel stud is similar to cinderblock in its ability of the wall to resist being broken when pulled on, so let's use that 160 pound number.

Envision a TV mount sideways. The main thing the upper bolts do is keep the top of the mount from being pulled out of the wall. There's no pull outward to speak of against the lower bolts. So... two bolts at the top and you've got the ability to withstand 320 pounds of pull. That's A LOT!

Shear force is what tries to push the bolt straight downward, shearing the drywall or shearing the 1/4-20 bolt. It's MUCH harder to make a bolt slide down a wall than pull out, reflected in the data: 240 pounds. Four togglers require 960 pounds to pull them down.

I like to use six bolts whenever possible. Whenever a mount has been designed that tells me exactly where the stud must be, but the customer's wall is not build that way, I drill additional holes in the mount so I hit a stud.

All that makes this an incredibly strong mounting approach.

Last edited by Ernie Gilman on February 19, 2016 04:45.
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